From: 32tom Sent: 5/17/2004

The best spot for the frame to hose connection is the spot where the final wheel and tire selection can't rub against it. Turn the tire lock to lock.

I prefer to buy the pre flared pieces that are at least a foot longer than my rough measurements. Mount the components where they fit and work the best instead of where the tube ends up. I buy extra inverted flare fittings and replace the one ugly long fitting on each piece. (why do they do that?) The coil stuff works but it's hard to get it sraight enough for a proffesional looking job. You can try rolling it out in the crotch of a piece of angle iron.

I've used one of those cheap double flaring tools for years. (I lube the threads on the cone wedge). Ream the cut end. Clamp the long end of the tool in the vice. Carefully set the end of the tube above the face of the tool with the button in the kit. Tighten the wing nuts with a pair of pliers. Start the flare with the button and the remove it and finish the flare. After you finish the double flare get a new piece, make another just like it. This time remember to put the fitting on before you flare it. Anybody that hasn't done that is either very lucky or lying.

The best reasonably priced bender that I have found is the Robinair mdl# 14528. Clamp the fixed handle in a vice and pull the hinged handle around the form to get perfect bends.

Maybe over kill but, I like to lightly buff the finished tubes with a scotch bright pad from the kitchen. Then some spray bomb clear to keep the weather off for few more years.

For me it's one of the most rewarding jobs when doing a car. Take your time. Then step back and enjoy your craftsmanship.

Sorry if I got long winded. I tried to include most of the tips I've picked up over the years.


From: mr bill Sent: 5/17/2004

Most through frame fittings I have seen are for a boxed frame. If you are not going to do that you can drill a hole in the frame and use the std female brake fitting that uses the clip. I found my '38 frame to be the perfect thickness so the clip holds pefectly. Put the end of the fitting through the hole and slide on the clip. Then you can use the std rubber brake lines depending on what typ of brakes you are using. I will tell you that if I had to do it all over again I would weld on a tab to the frame to hold the brake line instead of going through the frame. It would be a lot less difficult to get at the fittings if you need to work on the brakes.


From: steve'36 Sent: 5/17/2004

The front hoses end on "brackets" that bolt to the frame and secure the tube end with "spring clips" and run the line through the bottom of the inner fender well to a Tee just inside. I slotted the fender well so it dropped over the tube and welded on a "U" shaped reinforcement since I was getting close to the louvers. The supply tube runs on top of the frame and there is a crossover tube on the front crossmember. This is similat to the "stock" setup. Steve


From: steve'36 Sent: 5/18/2004

Method for straightening coiled tubing: This is what the pipefitters do. Roll out a long length of tubing on the floor. Attach one end to an imovable object. Attach the other end to a cable or chain puller (come-a-long)connected to another imovable object. Pull the tubing until it stretches slightly. It will now be very straight. Cut to desired lengths.Discard the damaged end pieces. Steve


Return to Home Index