arkus-vt: 4/22/2001 - 1/1/1900 7:16:49 PM
to jwl
when you assemble a `floater` motor do you scuff both rod bearing surfaces a little with a 3-m pad or install them shiney?? curious to how it`s done down your way! thanks

JWL: 4/22/2001 - 1/1/1900 9:39:16 PM
RE: to jwl
By the time a set of ``floaters`` is properly fitted to the crank, they are no longer shiney. Yes, I do deburr-clean them. I use Norton pads, but I doubt the brand is important to this discussion.

arkus-vt: 4/22/2001 - 1/1/1900 10:19:04 PM
RE: to jwl
thanks, care to take us `less informed` thru a session on properly fitting same?

JWL: 4/23/2001 - 1/1/1900 12:00:54 AM
RE: to jwl
Well, it can be a very time consuming process. (I mean the ``fitting, not the explanation) As everyone knows, the design is such that the bearings can either turn WITH the crank journal, or ON the crank journal. Same with the bearing O.D., as it can either turn WITH the connecting rod, or ON the connecting rod. In order for this to happen, each bearing half must be formed to fit the journal with 1/2 the total clearance arrived at by subtracting the bearing thickness from the difference between the measured journal O.D. and the connecting rod I.D. Out of the box the bearing halves are (usually) a mile away from allowing the system to function as designed. I use a large ``deadblow` hammer and a block of oak wood to make the ``adjustments`` with. It is a matter of being patient and opening or closing the bearing untill just the right ``fit`` is achieved. When you feel comfortable with your work, bolt on a connecting rod and test the fit. The rod or the bearing must be absolutely free to turn at any location around the crank or on the bearing. Getting both ends formed exactly the same can be rather challenging. Only then is the set truly considered ``full floating`` It is not unusual to spend several hours on this job.

arkus-vt: 4/23/2001 - 1/1/1900 5:58:01 AM
RE: to jwl
outside of our bearing calibration tools (we use a rubber hammer and an old flywheel) same deal here. was looking for a way to eliminate the hours but knew in my heart the search would be futile! thanks jwl

--JD: 4/23/2001 - 1/1/1900 10:37:54 AM
RE: to jwl
JWL, Have you a `pin fitter` to hone rods to size? Having seen a rod guage for flats, I recall the mandrel that hones rods, leaving a nice cross hatch, and crucial sizing I should think to get final clearences. All I ever saw were stretched out of shape and needed it. (long ago) Oddly enough, full floaters `used to` fit like a charm, but even the 8BA I just did had to have the inserts spread to lock into the rod right.

JWL: 4/23/2001 - 1/1/1900 12:51:25 PM
RE: to jwl
Yes, I have the Sunnen ``pin fitter``. The caps can be milled and the rod bore resized to std. Or, some bearings are available (FF) with oversized O.D. for enlarging the rod bore without cap machining. Many of the rods found today have to be ``compressed`` at the parting line to achieve standard diameter by cap machining and honing.

arkus-vt: 4/23/2001 - 1/1/1900 4:32:22 PM
RE: to jwl
my rods have been finish-honed to 2.220, i`m using old time ford silver cad bearings and still having a problem. with a 1.998 crank pin and shells at .110 there should be .0005 on all 4 surfaces. no luck yet, but still much better than having to drive with a sbc!

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